Vinimundi - Guide de dégustation

Wine tasting - an art

« …now is the time for quiet, to raise a rounded glass to the roof. First, the eye; then the nose; at last, the mouth ... » Colette.

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Wine has been an integral part of our beautiful country's culture for 2,500 years. As Rabelais remarked, it makes you happy. Those drinking it are inclined to become loquacious, to break into song even! In describing a good wine, we use musical terms, speaking of aromatic notes one following on another, of flavours being in harmony, a wine maker may wax lyrical about his product.

The glass…

A standard tasting glass is tulip shaped with stem and round base. Hold the stem above the base between the thumb and index finger, with your middle finger curled below the base. This will allow you to manipulate the glass more easily. Don't hold the bowl - it warms the wine.

Using your senses

Your basic senses - sight, smell, taste and hearing - all come into play when you analyse a wine's qualities. For example, the sound of the 'pop' as a cork leaves a bottle, or the bubbles in a sparkling wine, hint at pleasures to come. Obviously, learning to taste involves practice and technique. But it is not necessary to be a highly qualified oenologue to taste and appreciate wine.

This is how the three basic stages work:

The visual phase

To begin, let us analyse these characteristics:

Colour depth : this indicates a wine's potential strength. To generalise, a light red probably means a wine with light tannins (for drinking young); a darker red might indicate a richer wine, with more concentrated tannins and body.
Colour variations : allow us to judge how a wine is evolving or its age. Over time, the colour changes: a young red may be tinged with violet. As it ages these nuances develop a browny shade (eg a dark red wine with hints of brown or brick red). The same principle applies to whites which tend to hints of green when young, developing darker highlights when mature (eg light gold with
hints of amber). You can see these differences very clearly by tilting the glass away from you over a sheet of white paper and looking at the rim of the liquid. The browner the rim, the older the wine.
Clarity : how clear is the wine ? This is important. A cloudy wine, or one with floating solid particles (pips, lees, yeast) may mean a spoiled wine, or may simply muddle your taste buds. To check the clarity, hold your glass upright against a light source.
Brilliance/luminosity : how a wine reflects light. This can give a hint of how the wine will taste in the mouth. For example, a wine with a touch of acidity will be more brilliant than a smoother, more creamy, wine.
Texture : water and alcohol evaporate at different rates. So when you swirl your glass transparent Viscous constituents' (alcohol, glycerine, sugar) slip slowly down the sides. Known as "legs', these usually indicate a particular smoothness. They are also seen in high alcohol liqueurs and spirits.
Effervescence : The columns of regular, tiny, bubbles which rise all the way through a glass of quality sparkling wine.

On the nose

This phase has several separate steps :

The first nose : hold the glass steady, take a good sniff and try and identify the perfumes; then try and work out which is predominant; define their qualities, finesse, complexity - faults even.
The second nose : hold the glass as described earlier, swirl it and take another sniff. See how the aromas become more intense as the surface level alters and the wine breathes.

Basically, there are three types of bouquet :
— primary or varietal : these relate directly to the type of grape. Grenache usually smells of raspberry, whilst violet and liquorice are evident in Syrah. Cabernet Sauvignon can evoke green pepper; Muscat often has a hint of citrus peel.
— secondary : as fermentation progresses, the nose changes to incorporate the characteristics of the terroir (soil, surrounding vegetation etc) where the grapes are grown. These can include traces of crystallised fruit, toasted nuts, spices, resin....
— tertiary : whilst the wine is developing, the aromas develop, opening up and harmonising into the finesse, elegance and subtlety of full maturity.

In the mouth

This is the last of the 'three senses' test when the perfumes and aromas all come together on the taste buds giving the true taste of a wine. We shall take two or three sips - and, yes, we do spit. If we do not, we shall not be able to continue effectively. Professional tasters can usually taste fifteen samples, sometimes more - but they never swallow; nor should we. Start by aerating the wine -barboter. take a mouthful of wine and suck some air in through your teeth, hold it in your mouth, and exhale the aromas through the nose. This has a two-fold effect: it both puts the wine in direct contact with your taste buds, and allows you to appreciate the bouquet as you breath out.

Once you've got the hang of this, you will be able to feel :

› the four taste sensations : an ancient theory of taste, occasionally condemned by modern researchers as too simplistic in that it ignores the other senses, does still hold good. Without them, all food would be insipid.
— sweetness : is felt at the tip of the tongue and allows one to taste the sweetness in a wine. It is the effect of non-fermented and residual sugars as well as alcohol and glycerine.
— acidity : is felt at the back of the tongue. This adds life to a wine which otherwise would seem flat and dull. With too much acidity a wine is described as 'green' - as in an unripe fruit. Acidity in wine varies according to the types of grape, and the climate - which plays a large
part. For example, Grenache Blanc from sunny Mediterranean vineyards has little acidity, Gros Plant and Muscadet grown further north in the Loire have a far higher acidity.
— bitterness : felt at the back of the tongue. An excess can be a fault. In red wines it is sometimes linked with me astringency of harsh tannins which 'bite' the throat.
— saltiness : felt on the front of the tongue, near the tip. It usually means a wine is faulty.

› Pseudo-heat : alcohol can produce a feeling of heat even though it is served at the correct temperature. An over-alcoholic wine is known as "hot1 or 'burning'.

› Astringency : a chemical sensation which can be noticeable in red wines which, alone, contain tannins. It can irritate the mouth and throat, dry the mouth and block the salivary glands. When it is particularly noticeable a wine is called 'mache' - hard.

› Balance : one of the most important factors to take into account during a tasting. Whether a wine is red, white or rosé, soft, tight, powerful or tannic, all the senses and flavours should come together in the mouth- it should be 'well rounded'. Where one or another dominates or overpowers the others, the wine is said to be 'un-ba!anced'.

› Length or aftertaste : quite simply how long the flavours last before starting to fade. Technically measured in caudalies (approximately one second) it exemplifies the quality of a wine. Up to 4 caudalies it would be described as 'short in the mouth'. Over ten, it has 'great length' and would be considered a tine' wine.

Putting into practice...

At first sight, the technique of tasting can seem a touch complicated. But once grasped, the principles can be mastered by constant practice. By now you should be able to add the enjoyment of tasting wine to the pleasure of drinking it.
So, to our glasses ! Let's uncork a few bottles and enjoy what we've learnt.

A tasting selection from prestige vineyards

Meursault, Côte de Beaune, quality white wines with an international reputation.

The supreme Chardonnay grape is ideal for producing white wines which, as they mature, develop into the colour of ripe straw with golden highlights. On the nose there are subtle hints of white flowers, dried fruit, citrus peel, toast, a touch of honey, all in well balanced oak. in the mouth they are rounded, lively and full - all of which point to good ageing potential.

Châteauneuf-du-pape, the splendid Grenache grape predominates in these southern Côtes du Rhône wines.
Whilst Grenache noir is the classic grape of this area, it is sometimes blended with Syrah, Mourvedre or Carignan. Its dark red colour and intense nose lead, in the mouth, to hints of ripe fruit, dried prunes, the scents of the garrigue and spice. Very well balanced, with soft tannins and good alcohol, Châteauneuf wines are often partly matured in oak, which ensures they will keep for a number of years.

In the hills north-west of Marseille stretching as far as Saint Raphaël, Côtes de
Provence wines come in three colours.
Whites are pale gold, perfumed with citrus peel and dried fruit, they are well balanced, rounded yet lively, and soft in the mouth.
Rosé's vary from pale to dark pink, with hints of apricot, exotic fruit and spice, can become full in the mouth while simultaneously being rounded and fresh.
Reds are clear, with aromas of red and blackcurrants, with a touch of vanilla and smoke for those matured in oak barrels. They are well balanced in the mouth, when young they are slightly astringent, though the tannins soften over time.
The AC rules allow up to thirteen grape varieties, though we shall concentrate on the principle ones: black Grenache, Carignan, Cinsault, Mourvedre and Syrah for reds and rosés, white Grenache, Marsanne, Roussanne, Rolle and Clairette for the whites.

The Guyenne and the world renowned great Crus of Bordeaux…
Saint-Emilions wines, after a second and more demanding tasting may be promoted to Grand Crus. The dominant grape variety, Merlot, is blended with Cabernet Franc (known locally as bouchet) and a little Cabernet Sauvignon. On the eye the former are ruby or garnet coloured, whilst the latter are frequently darker and more intense. On the nose there are hints of red fruit, cherry stones, leather and spice; vanilla and smoke can also be present depending on the wines' age. In the mouth they are often full bodied, with well balanced, soft tannins.

Gold in a bottle of Sauternes…
Almost everyone has heard of Sauternes, in particular Chateau d'Yquem. Blended from
St Emillion, Sauvignon and Muscadelle, these naturally sweet wines take pride of place at the best tables. Varying in colour from pale to dark gold, they are wonderful on the nose. Elegant and rich, with a bouquet that is at the same time floral and toasty with a very subtle oakiness, there are hints of dried or candied exotic fruit and of spice. All these combine in the rich, full-bodied, smooth mouth, ending with incredible length and magical aftertaste. They can be kept for at least ten years, far longer for the great vintages.

The Languedoc-Roussillon: diverse, varied, distinctive…
The wines of the future Carignan and black Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault and Mourvedre are all used in red and rosé wines; the whites may include white Grenache, Clairette, Picpoul, Marsanne, Roussanne and Verrnentino (also known as Rolle). They range from pale to dark in colour; on the nose and in the mouth they can be floral or fruity, fresh, light and lively : delightful, easy drinking wines. But increasingly one finds more powerful, intensely coloured wines, with aromas and taste of crystallized fruit, citrus peel, spice, herbs of the garrigue and pine resin. In the mouth they are full, well rounded and complex, with good length. These characteristics will undoubtedly result in some fine Languedoc 'crus' - indeed, a number of great chefs have already fallen under their spell.

The Language of wine

As with all "artistic" disciplines, wine tasting has its own vocabulary which may well evoke images inspired by poetry, but which has its own definite rules. In the three tasting stages, words are used to describe a progression leading from the weakest to the strongest - a true crescendo. The following examples illustrate the simplicity of this method. This is how it is described in " La dégustation. Comprendre et connaître le vin " by G. Fribourg & C. Sarfati, published by Edisud.

Alcooleux : A technical term to describe a wine where the alcohol is too obvious or 'hot1. This is generally considered a fault.

Ampleur : Similar to volume. It describes a full-bodied wine which fills the palate with its flavours.

Barbotage : The technique of taking a small mouthful of wine, sucking the air into it through the teeth, exhaling the air through the nose, and holding the wine in the mouth to release as much flavour as possible.

Cépage : Grape variety. For example: Reds: merlot, cabernet sauvignon, black grenache, mourvedre, black carignan... Whites: chardonnay, sauvignon, roussanne, marsanne, malvoisie...

Charpenté : A very tannic wine.

Cordon : in sparkling wines, this describes the columns of bubbles which rise vertically up through the glass. In good quality wines, these rise regularly over a long period, and consist of tiny bubbles.

Corsé : A full bodied wine, with well balanced tannins, fat and alcohol resence.

Coulant : Slightly tannic.

Fermentaire : From the fermentation process.

Lies, bourbes : Basically vegetable based particles, dust, yeasts and other foreign bodies present in grape juice and non filtered wine, which can cause problems.

Léger : Wine with a low alcohol content.

Nervosité, vivacité & fraîcheur : terms for different degrees of acidity.
Described as vif (lively), a wine will have a higher acidity than one described as frais (fresh). One described as having nervosity will have more than either.

Robe : Colour.

Rondeur : Rounded; a wine that slips down easily without catching on the palate.

Souple : Soft, low in tannins.

Sucres non fermentescibles : Complex sugars that are not converted into alcohol by yeast. A wine described as 'dry' contains less than 2 grams per litre.

Sucres résiduels : Natural grape sugar found in sweet or semi-sweet wines such as Sauternes or Muscat. The fermentation is deliberately stopped to retain the sweetness.

Tanins : Give an astringent taste. They come from organic material found in the skin of red grapes. They are also found in pips and stems which should be discarded during the vinification process as they simply make the wine bitter or hard. Tannins are natural antioxydants which help a wine to age well. Generally speaking, the more tannic the wine, the longer it will keep. Tannins also help eliminate the 'bad' cholesterol from our arteries!

Voie rétro-nasale ou rétro-olfaction : After spitting out a wine, one breathes out through the nose. The expelled air impregnates the sensitive membranes at the back of the nose which differentiate among differing aromas.

Volume : See Ampleur.

The language of wine

"As whith all "artistic" disciplines, wine tasting has its own vocabulary which may well evoke images inspired by poetry, but which has its own definite rules. In the three tasting stages, words are used to describe a progression leading from the weakest to the strongest - a true crescendo. The following examples illustrate the simplicity of this method. This is how it is described in "La dégustation. Comprendre et connaître le vin" by G.Fribourg & C.Sarfati, published by Edisud.

The eye

COLOUR

White wine (from young to old) : lime green, lemon, straw, gold, amber.
Red wine (from young to old) : violet, cherry, ruby, garnet, purple, brick, orange.
Intensity : Pale, light, medium, strong, dark.

CLARITY
Cloudy, murky, misty, clear, luminous, crystal clear.

VISCOSITY
Fluid, dense, thick, oily, viscous.

The nose

INTENSITY
Non-existant, very weak, weak, light, lightly aromatic, aromatic, very aromatic, powerful.

QUALITY
Unpleasant, crude, rough, boring, pleasant, very pleasant, quality, distinguished, fine, great.

The mouth

ACIDITY
Flat, flabby, fresh, lively, flighty, green, very green.

ASTRINGENCY
(tannins)
Thin, flacid, unbalanced, soft, tannic, hard, astringent.

ALCOHOL
(heat sensations)
Weak, light, generous, warm, hot, burning.

SWEETNESS
Biting, dried, hard, firm, melting, round, fat, unctuous, cloying.

Aromas set your imagination to work...

Researchers looking into the mystery of certain aromas - which is as hard as finding the origins of life - have identified 500-600. Without trying too hard or even being about what substance causes a particular smell, they have divided them into different families. Here are some examples.

› Floral : acacia, hawthorn, honeysuckle, narcissus, carnation, rose, jasmin, lime, broom, violet...
› Fruit : apricot, peach, redcurrant, cherry, strawberry, raspberry, gooseberry, blackberry, quince, lemon, orange, apple, lychee, passion fruit...

› Dried fruit : hazelnut, almond, walnut, dried fig, prunes ...

› Vegetable : compost (a fault), new mown hay, red pepper, mushrooms, fungus, humus, tea, tobacco, redcurrant leaves and stems ...

›Herbs & spices : cinnamon, vanilla, nutmeg, pepper, cloves, thyme, bay, lavender, basil, aniseed, fennel...

› Animal : amber, musk, civet, game, fur, leather, fox ...

› Balsamic : pine, resin, terebinth, juniper, incense, boxwood...

› Toasted : grilled, smoked, burnt, coffee, cocoa, tar, rubber, caramel...

› Odeurs lactiques, (from fermentation) : butter, yeast, yoghourt...

› Mineral : Flint, gun powder...

› Chemical : Ethyl acetate, nail varnish (characteristic of vinegar), amyl acetate (better known as the constituent of artificial flavours (banana, strawberry) in confectionery and boiled sweets...

› Finally, inevitably, miscellaneous : honey, wax, baking soda (for the softer ones), damp floorcloths, mould, stagnant water, manure (usually the result of unhygenic storage tanks and containers).

A complete inventory " à la Prévert " to commit to memory when trying to identify the myriad smells we discover when sniffing a wine ! .

Michel COSTE. Translated by Patricia


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